We use cookies to provide you with a better experience. If you continue to use this site, we'll assume you're happy with this. Alternatively, click here to find out how to manage these cookies

hide cookie message
Contact Forum Editor

Send an email to our Forum Editor:


PLEASE NOTE: Your name is used only to let the Forum Editor know who sent the message. Both your name and email address will not be used for any other purpose.

Tech Helproom


It's free to register, to post a question or to start / join a discussion


 

desoldering problem


john12

Likes # 0

Hi and thanks for reading this post.

I have a bad capacitor on a motherboard and in order to change it i purchased a reel of desoldering wick from ebay, just a generic brand from china.

After applying onto the joint and plenty of heat the wick would not draw up any of the solder, then i used a large blob of solder paste which helps the solder to melt more easily, but nothing.

I was advised that "Goot" is a good brand of desoldering wick so back i went on ebay, when the stuff arrived it was useless.

Has anyone actually purchased desoldering wick which works first time without any of all this hassle i am experiencing, where is a reliable source which will deliver what they advertise and not rip me off.

Many thanks in advance. John.

Like this post
woodchip

Likes # 0

Solder pumps are only good for individual joint legs, wick is for IC's You put the Wick over the Solder the Iron on the wick, you may need to put flux on the Wick first for it o work as it should. At Maplins you can now get Solder Iron with pump all in one

Like this post
john12

Likes # 0

Hi. Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

@ wee eddie if i do not clear the hole of solder i have to fiddle around with the new capacitor's leads trying to get them into the throughhole, which i find difficult, whilst holding a hot iron with one hand and trying to find the hole with the other.

@vcr97 I was advised to heat up the solder by placing the iron on one side of the joint, when the solder melts, place the wick on the other side of the joint and it should suck up the old solder. What do you think of this suggestion. I have been placing the wick directly over the whole joint, heating it, then expecting the wick to suck up all the old solder. Was i doing it wrong.

Many thanks. John.

Like this post
chub_tor

Likes # 0

80 watts is far too powerful to use on circuit boards, I hope that you have it well turned down using the variable adjustment if not you will lift the track off the board. 45 watts is recommended if you are an expert, 15 watts will do most small jobs.

I am not a fan of solder wicks, I have used them in the past but like many other here I use a solder sucker although for simple jobs like capacitors it is often just as easy to alternately apply heat to each leg in turn while pulling on the capacitor at the same time. It really helps if you can clamp the board vertically so that you can work on both sides at the same time - applying heat and pulling. Once the capacitor is out if the hole is still blocked then I use a pin on one side and heat on the other to clear the hole. Push the new capacitor in (make sure you have + in the right hole) solder and then clip off the surplus wire.

Like this post
caccy

Likes # 0

If you handle the end of any type of solderwick it will not wick up properly. Suspect it is due to the oils on your fingers. Over many years of electronic servicing the actual method of component removal is a personal thing.

Like this post
Diemmess

Likes # 0

It may be that the capacitor wire is a very good fit on the board and capillary action makes the very small amount of solder cling best to the capacitor lead.

Can you try a small screwdriver under the capacitor as a lever, one lead at a time once the site is hot? There may be very little to remove and with luck there will be holes where the new leads must go.

Frankly I could never get on with the tape. I use a combination of solder sucker, leverage, or even on occasions if there is too much solder around, blow the surplus off with a close blast, trying not to let my lips touch!

Like this post
wiz-king

Likes # 0

Diemmess I bet you have a carpet covered with solder splats!

Like this post
Diemmess

Likes # 0

wiz-king - Vinyl tiles in my workshop. The splats brush or scrape off easily unless they land on fabric.

I hope john12 isn't cooking the rest of the board with ever increasing the power of the -iron

Like this post
woodchip

Likes # 0

wood cocktail stick is good for clearing holes

Like this post
chub_tor

Likes # 0

Good point woodchip, I have also used those in the past having had my fingers burned by conducted heat rising up the pin. Usually depends on what's to hand for me, pins I have in the study, cocktail sticks are in the kitchen so laziness usually wins.

Like this post
VCR97

Likes # 0

John, I just put the braid on the joint, not at one side with the iron at the other side. If you pressed the braid onto he joint then,as suggested by "caccy" above, the braid might have traces of skin oil on it.

Like this post

Reply to this topic

This thread has been locked.



IDG UK Sites

Samsung Galaxy S5 mini vs HTC One mini 2 comparison review: Design and price beats additional...

IDG UK Sites

Why local multiplayer gaming is rapidly vanishing: we look at the demise of split-screen and LAN...

IDG UK Sites

Colour-depth not resolution is what will make 4K a success or failure

IDG UK Sites

iPhone 6 vs iPhone 6 Plus: Which new iPhone 6 model should I buy?