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Strip off the coving and renew it after the tiling - it's easier than cutting all the tiles to fit the ceiling.
It will hide a multitude of sins if stud walls have any movement at all... if the remaining walls are sturdy and solid, it may have less function. Personally, I'd have to know what the tiling plan was. If any tiles are going to the ceiling, I'd say a definite "no" to coving. Part coving a room is a no no in my book.
I've got the builders in at the moment redoing bathroom & en-suites... sadly, they're not terribly good, so I mught just poach you/your plumber! ;)
for second opinion
The second opinion would seem to be quite conclusive,
"After doing some preliminary calculations & basing my arithmetical algorithm to the vague heuristics of calculation a strategy on a cessapatic bathroom curmaltion factor of 37.241 I would say YES"
No idea what he's on though...
One is that the room will look far more sophisticated if it has a coving. Running tiles right to the wall/ceiling junction tends to make the room look like a service station toilet.
By far the best result would be achieved by removing the existing coving, tiling to within a few millimetres of the ceiling, and then fixing a new gypsum or timber coving. Avoid using a polystyrene coving, tempting as it might be - it always looks amateurish.
That said, removing and replacing the cove does involve a considerable amount of additional work, and some cost. Someone who knows what he/she is doing can make an excellent job of infilling a section of missing cove, so that's not a real problem. The problem is that tiling up to a cove means the tiles will obscure almost all of the bottom lip of the coving, and again that looks amateurish.
If you must tile to the ceiling you must, but you won't be so happy with the appearance. Long after you've forgotten the work and cost involved in a complete replacement of the coving you'll be very glad you did it....in my opinion.
If you are going to fit coving make very sure that the bottom edge of the coving isn't going to end up very close to the joint between two rows of tiles.
This is very important because if the tiles are level but the ceiling isn't the proximity of the coving edge to the grout line will only help to exaggerate it.
is by making sure that you set out your tiling properly.
Mark the wall at the top, where the bottom edge of the coving will come. Then mark the horizontal centre point of the wall between floor and cove bottom.
Now you can set oput your tiles do you end up with a visually pleasing cut size at top and bottom. The cuts will be equal, and you can get the one you prefer by tiling away from the centre line, or by having it bisect a tile. You will obviously start physically tiling at the bottom, but set out the tile rows using the centre point.
This will result in a wall that has perfectly matching tile cuts at top and bottom. Use the same method to centre the vertical tile rows on the wall, so you get matching cuts at each corner. Aim to set out so that you end up with the corner cuts looking as if a tile has been 'bent' around the corner.
It's easier to do than it is to explain in writing.
Got any spare time...?
"Running tiles right to the wall/ceiling junction tends to make the room look like a service station toilet."
Well if that statement hasn't made your mind up for you:)
Reminds me of a mate nearly 30 years ago, he was dithering over buying a 2lt Capri or a Fiat X19. I made some comment in the pub about the X19 being a blond bimbo's car (we didn't do PC then), the next day he bought a 3lt Capri to prove his testosterone levels!
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