If you are going to do anything properly and competently, then its best to learn all the hows and whys and theory, be it music, quantum physics, mechanics, or fly fishing.
Same goes for web development/design its all very well being able to use templates etc, but you should really learn HTML. By learning HTML you will be able to understand how webpages work, what the code actually means and most important be able to write code yourself or just tweak code produced by FrontPage etc.
Good starting point to learn HTML are these resources webmonkey ( no connection to me ) click here
W3schools click here
Web developers library click here
Of course you don’t have to learn HTML, you can simply purchase frotnpage and off you go without having to learn anything , however this is ok for hobbyist and running the odd club or personal webpages, but for anything serious such as starting a business or wanting more flexibility over what the package produces, then learn HTML