Mysteriously dead PC - PSU?

  NinkyRudes 10:39 12 Dec 08

Oh it's been far too long since I posted on these here forums!

So basically I shut down my PC on Wednesday night, all was well. Then went to switch it on again last night, and it is dead as a dodo.

No attempt at even trying to boot, no pops, rattles or squeaks. The light on my motherboard is off. Yet if I plug my power cord in to an old kettle, it boils.

Is it possible for a PSU (Coolermaster Realpower 700w) to die quietly when the computer is powered off? I had suspected it wasn't quite right cos I've only had it a month and it made a horrible hich pitched squeaking sound under load, but worked.

Any ideas before I get home tonight and dismatle the thing to try an alternative PSU?

  iqs 10:45 12 Dec 08

Yes to PSU,they can just die,but usually you notice minor problems before it go's to PSU heaven.Like you did...

You could always make sure the front on/off switch works,if it has failed you cannot switch the PC/PSU on.

There are devices for testing the voltages on the PSU rails,but at a cost .

Do you have a spare known working PSU to replace the faulty unit?

  Fruit Bat /\0/\ 10:45 12 Dec 08

If lead is OK then PSU is fabourite.
A switch at rear of PSU?

click here
click here

If renewing a PSU check:

1. The physical size of your PSU, some are hard to replace due to being a non standard size.
2. The amount of power need from the PSU don't skimp.
3 The correct connections for your equipment

1. Physical Dimensions

Besides the specs and form factors, the physical dimensions are also important factors in selecting a compatible power supply. Here is an outline of the physical dimensions of most standard power supplies:

# ATX: 6x3.5x5.5", HxWxD. Most common. Uses 4 mounting screws.
# Mini-ATX: 5x3.5x5", HxWxD. Rare size. Uses 4 mounting screws. Can be used in a regular ATX case, but often not the other way around.
# MicroATX: 5x3x4", HxWxD. Use 3 mounting screws. Not interchangeable with ATX or miniATX.
# Flex ATX: Even smaller than Micro ATX. Various sizes according to case specs; often not interchangeable.

Use the data above to determine if a particular power supply would fit your case.

The quality of a power supply can be estimated by its weight. While this is not a true scientific or thorough measurement of the power supply reliability, it is nevertheless a very simple and easy way for ordinary PC users to estimate and compare the quality of a power supply. Why weight matters click here

2. Power supply calculator click here

3. Correct connections
Some boards have 20 pin connectors others 24 pin
There is often a 4 pin plug required to power Intel CPUs
Molex D plugs for IDE HDD and CD/DVD drives
SATA power connections for latest HDDs and DVD drives.

Guide to changing PSU
click here
click here

  NinkyRudes 11:15 12 Dec 08

Many thanks for your immediate and constructive help, it's why I always favour this forum over some of the more 'specialist' hardware forums.

The mobo in question is a Biostar Tpower i45, which has power and reset buttons on the pcb, no luck from these.

I do have an old Jeantech 450w PSU I can use, although I may have to leave my GTX280 out of the equation as leaving this in may lead to a second dead PSU!!

Ironically, I am awaiting the return/replacement of an Antec Neopower 650w supply at the moment, this should be back any day now so I am loathe to purchase a new supply or commence yet another RMA with Ebuyer for the Coolermaster until I am sure it's definitely just the PSU!

  woodchip 11:30 12 Dec 08

Start buttons can be forgotten, as all it does when you press it is, it shorts two pins on the board BIOS then takes over

  sunnystaines 11:55 12 Dec 08

put you nose in with the system off does the psu have a burnt smell to it?

does the m/b has any leaked or burnt capacitors?

  NinkyRudes 13:07 12 Dec 08

No funny smells, and the mobo looks sound (although I will get it out tonight and have a proper scour).

Out of interest, please have a look at the specs below:

Antec P182 SE (4 x 120mm Fans)
Zalman MFC2 Fan controller
Biostar T-Power i45
Core 2 Duo E6600 @ 3.2GHz (8 x 400Mhz)
Scythe Infinity (1 x 120mm Fan)
4Gb XMS2 PC6400 CL4 @ Stock
EVGA GTX280 Supeclocked @ stock
1Tb Samsung F1
2 x 250Gb Maxtor
X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro (PCI-e)
Front panel card reader
Philips DVD Writer
Logitech MX518
Logitech G11

I reckon a 600w PSU with a decent amount of amps on the +12v rail ought to be fine for this, but am I missing something? I felt that by choosing a 700w supply with up to 76A on the (4 combined) +12v rails that I would be fine.

It just seems odd that 2 consecutive PSUs have died at the hands of this beast... 2 different GTX280s as well (the first was faulty)!

  sunnystaines 13:54 12 Dec 08

take it back if you have only had it a month

  NinkyRudes 16:45 12 Dec 08

As soon as I am 100% certain it's the PSU (i.e. after whisking it out and trying a different one), that's exactly what I'm going to do!

Thanks all!

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