family tree websites are primarily only of interest to those who belong to (or are close to) the family - they're of little interest to the world at large, and as such there's not the need to devote quite so much time to bells and whistles......the content is all-important.
You've obviously put a lot of work into your site, and there's a wealth of content there for the family to enjoy. If I look at the site purely from the design point of view there are a couple of comments however:-
1. The map background on the homepage is distracting, and the text is not all that easy to read.
2. I'm not personally very keen on the rather drab green theme - I would have used something more inviting, a fresh blue or cream perhaps.
3. Large slabs of text make for lapses in concentration. Look at any good magazine and see how the layout creates interest - text blocks broken up by images, or lines and boxes.