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In my refurbished bathroom I chose this tap click here as the description then said 'Suitable for low pressure systems'.
I have a conventional gravity-fed system and a power shower meant I didn't need to have a pump.
Now I find the hot water flow from the tap is quite slow, and I note the description has been amended to 'High pressure only'.
Would a pump in the hot water feed to the tap solve this problem? The cold water supply is at mains pressure. And where can I obtain a single impeller pump?
Read the leaflet, make sure your hot water is from a cylinder not a combo boiler! Why is your bathroom tap at mains pressure? If it is on the cold water supply you must fit a one way valve to ensure water cannot flow back into the water main. If your want drinking water in the bathroom you should really have a separate tap.
Oops leaflet click here
The problem with these designer taps it they use 8-10mm pipe causing a slower flow through the tap. Although installing pump may solve the problem they are sometimes noisy and would suggest contacting your plumber for advice.
Usually the plumber will have installed an isolation valve on the hot and cold pipes which again tend to reduce the flow, have you checked that the isolation valve is fully open.
to pump a Domestic Hot Water supply to a tap. The fact that Wickes state the tap is for use on high water pressure systems only is enough to tell you that there'll be flow problems on a tanked system
You should be looking to Wickes to replace the tap with another one - it appears to be the case that the tap was wrongly described when you bought it, but unless you have some evidence of that you may have a problem.
If you install a pump, make sure it is fed(with no branches) direct from the loft cold water tank and from the Hot water storage tank also direct. In this way if others in the house use hot or cold water it will not impact on the power shower.
please ensure that the pump's supply is taken from the cylinder below the hot water outlet/vent pipe that comes from the top. Under no circumstances take the supply from the normal outlet pipe, because if you do, the pump will not operate correctly - air will drawn into the water flow.
The right way to do it is to fit a Surrey, York, or Essex flange to the cylinder; the first two go into the top of the tank, the Essex fits into the side, a short distance from the top.
This will ensure that air isn't drawn into the pump supply, and the pump will work better and last longer. Remember that a modern pump may draw water from a cylinder faster than the cold water supply from the loft tank can refill it, and if that happens your pump will simply stop when the flow detector senses no water flow.
wiz-king, I think most 'new' houses like mine, 20 years old, have mains cold water to the bathroom basin.
FE, the new power shower hot water is simply branched off the existing outlet. I did ask about a Surrey flange, but the advice was if air becomes a problem, it's easy to retro-fit one. So far it's not a problem.
Also, although the power shower really throws a lot of water out, the loft tank has plenty in reserve. Unless the cat suddenly decides he needs to turn the tap on at the same time, all will be OK.
I've looked up the tap in the Brochure I chose from. I quote:
'All High Pressure taps are marked with a HP, those that aren't are Low Pressure taps'.
This tap wasn't marked HP.
I've chosen another tap click here, it costs a bit more, but hopefully they will offer to come out and change the tap to this one.
Looking at the tap you have selected it looks like it has leaver to control the basin plug. Is your's a manual plug or is it controlled via a lever.
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